I was in Kohima, the north-eastern capital city of Nagaland, the land of the Naga tribes. This is an experimental town that offers little interest to corporate travelers shackled down with regulatory restrictions.
My travels into this state begin with Dimapur, the flatland twin town to Kohima. Dimapur is the town that connects Nagaland to the rest of this country through an airport and railway station. It is more populous than the state capital as it offers itself as a port of business for all those who want to trade into this amazing cultural diaspora.
From Dimapur to Kohima is 75kms but the ride takes me 3 hours or so in reasonably good conditions. The road is bumpy and winding but lush green and filled with the freshness of an untouched land. Numerous hairpin bends and four check posts later I get to Kohima, the hilltop capital of Nagaland.
Kohima, unlike its other twin Dimapur, is either an uphill or downhill drive. Whenever I walk on the streets of this town, either I am catching my breath at a 40 degree incline or testing the springiness of my calf muscles in a similar decline.
This is a quaint town with western clothes, eastern looks, northern weather, southern hospitality, and an indigenous culture. The people are beautifully chiseled folks with features etched onto their rosy faces. Like any other of its capital counterparts, its people are in a hurry to get to work or return after a tough day. But here the business day lasts 7 hours with the balance of the working hours spent in preparing to commute to work or back.
Shops open early for business. As early as 6AM! And they close at 5PM. Men and women with their briefcases or backpacks rushing to catch the rickety busses to get to their offices, housewives with their shopping bags buying fresh vegetables for the daily meal, children skipping along the streets to get an education, and rest of the herd for whatever be their business.
I did try to experience a litte of the local flavor with a walk in the wet market. Leafy vegetables, tubers, fruits, tiny frogs, grub worms, sea life, everything edible or not so is available to be cooked up into a meal. For once I chickened out to restrict my shopping to succulent oranges grown within the state.
Everyone in Nagaland chews on betel leaves. It is amazing how the horrible custom has its tendrils spread across the nation's nook and corner. If the people here have luscious pink cheeks due to the weather, the red lips are not a natural phenomenon rather a splat of disgrace on this country. The vileness of the "pan culture" including splatters and stains exists here too. In fact, every 5th shop is a pan shop. I think I have said enough on it!
Kohima has just two decent hotels to stay in. Hotel Japfu at PR Hills is a government owned Ashoka chain property with old world charm and old world services. The newer and more snazzy one on Old Minister's Hill is Hotel Cimorb run by the suave "Tony" who knows how to impress with his smile and service culture. There are tiny cafes that dot the market street but the other safe restaurant fit for the urban digestive track is Paradise, beside St. Mary's Nursing Home near PR Hills.
In this geography of extreme the day is shifted due to its relevant longitude to the rest of the country. Days begin early and close down early. Dinner is done by 7PM and lights out soon after. Thank God for cable television.
All said, this is a pristine green jewel in the high north east of India with scarce resources, few outsiders, and no fauna barring the virulent humans.
Three trips and three weeks have gone by and not a bird in the sky.
